By LEAH WEATHERSBY

My Eastern Washington in-laws call vegetarians "rabbits."

The origin of this name is, of course, the assumption that vegetarians are culinary outcasts, staying home eating nothing by carrots and cabbage, while the rest of the world goes out for steak.

Wrong.

This is a town where restaurateurs offer their "rabbit" patrons such delicacies as vegetables fried in chickpea batter, bamboo shoot salad, and vegan empanadas (Spanish pastries) - and that's just the first course.

In short, Seattle restaurant owners seem to have realized that just because someone brings environmental, health or animal welfare concerns to the table that doesn't mean they aren't eager to eat. While most dining establishments in North Seattle offer vegetarian options, the number of completely vegetarian restaurants has grown over the years. There are now several eateries in North Seattle where a vegetarian can walk in and order anything on the menu.

CARMELITA:

Kathryn Neumann and her husband, Michael Hughes, opened Carmelita in Greenwood in December, 1996. Before that, the couple worked together in their own decorative painting business called Neumann-Hughes Studios, and anyone who's been inside the restaurant shouldn't be surprised; the walls and the Mediterranean food are both colorful.

Neumann says that she and Hughes often found it frustrating to eat out while sticking to their vegetarian diet.

"We loved dining out and found the choices so limited," said Neumann, who said that she and her husband were often stuck with "the pasta primevera."

According to Neumann, meat-eaters like the choices Carmelita provides as well. She says that the customer comment cards they've gathered over the years indicate that more than 60 percent of their clientele are "omnivores." Neumann believes Carmelita's inclusiveness has helped the business bring in customers.

"We never felt people who weren't vegetarian were doing something wrong," Neumann said. "There is no message here other than good food."

Carmelita is located at 7314 Greenwood Ave N.

SILENCE-HEART-NEST:

Those who wonder north on The Ave long enough will run into a small, unassuming-looking restaurant called Silence-Heart-Nest. Owner Nandita Polissar describes the cuisine as "international with an Indian slant" and says that her clientele is about half vegetarian, half meat-eating. She founded the restaurant 15 years ago.

"I loved food and cooked a lot. I always wanted to do something like this," Polissar said.

Polissar said that she has derived a lot of support from her New York-based meditation group which includes seven other vegetarian restaurant owners as members.

Silence-Heart-Nest is located at 5247 University Way NE.

ARAYA'S VEGETARIAN PLACE:

Restaurant owner Araya Pudpard said she started her first Thai restaurant in the U-District, called the Bangkok Cafe, in 1987. Eventually, Pudpard says, she learned more about vegetarian and vegan cooking and opened up Araya's next door in 1994. By 1998 Pudpard said she realized vegan Thai cooking was her niche and closed her other restaurant to concentrate on Araya's.

"There are too many Thai restaurants," Pudpard said. "This makes me unique."

Pudpard, a vegetarian herself, says that she makes her own curry paste, omitting the shrimp products found in many others, and uses organic peanut butter and vegetables whenever possible. She also offers substitutes for things like sodium, soy and sugar which some diners like to avoid for health reasons or because of allergies.

"Every Thai restaurant has a vegetarian section, but I have pretty good customers who recognize the difference between (Araya's) and other restaurants."

Araya's Vegetarian Place is located at 4732 University Way NE.

THE SUNLIGHT CAFE:

Roosevelt's Sunlight Cafe is reputed to be one of North Seattle's oldest vegetarian hangouts. It's a casual place and the menu is eclectic, featuring vegetarian comfort foods like meatless burgers and pasta marinara. There's also tofu and brown rice for purists. The Sunlight Cafe's owner was not available for comment.

The Sunlight Cafe is located at 6403 Roosevelt Way NE. (